The undisputed queen of British fashion, Dame Vivienne Westwood is considered to be the Coco Chanel of the 21st century.
Born on April 8th 1941, Westwood grew up in the hills of Derbyshire, exhibiting a subversive streak and soon became the co-creator of punk, advocate of radical styling bringing her love of culture into play, shaping her into the designer that she is today.
A born craftswoman, she spent her younger years altering her school uniform and playing around with dressmaking patterns. As a teenager, Westwood designed her own clothes, including tailored suits, while spending most of her money on shoes.
At the age of 17, Westwood and her family moved to Harrow in London, where she attended the Harrow Art School, studying silversmithing and jewellery design. Westwood dropped out of university after just one semester, explaining: “I didn’t know how a working-class girl like me could possibly make a living in the art world.” Little did she know she was soon to become one of the most iconic fashion designers of the 21st century.
Unsure of her career in the art world, she took a more conventional path by studying at a teacher training college to become a primary school teacher. During this period of her life, she still continued to express her artistic side by creating her own jewellery, which she sold at a stall on Portobello Road in Chelsea, London.
The undisputed queen of British fashion. Photograph: Graeme Robertson
After the break-up of her first marriage to Derek Westwood, Vivienne met her partner and collaborator, Malcolm McLaren. To the outsider, this was an unlikely pairing due do the five-year age gap and McLaren being an art school dropout.
In 1971, they opened ‘Let It Rock’, a shop selling 50s memorabilia, on King’s Road, Chelsea. Westwood soon began to make clothes to sell in their shop; the first fashion consignment was four Teddy-boy suits that she customised by changing the colour of the velvet trim. This insignificant change to the suit altered Westwood’s career, making herself known to the world with her extravagant styles. Let It Rock showed the first signs of punk with the BDSM fashion, bondage clothing, spikey dog collars as well as the scandalous hair and make-up.
A year later, the pair embraced the rockers of the 70s and renamed the shop ‘Too Fast Too Live, Too Young To Die’ with a skull and crossbones as their logo.
43 years on and Vivienne Westwood has continued to be a tremendous influence on the fashion industry, with young girls and boys aspiring to her towering standards of creativity and design.
The Vivienne Westwood Company seems unrecognisable from its original manifestation. In the 80s, it was completely under Vivienne’s own personal vision: there was one line, one direction, one seasonal collection and one shop. Now, in the 21st century, Vivienne Westwood is an international success with global outlets and four distinct lines: Red Label, Gold Label, Anglomania and Man, yet the company is still Westwood to the core.
In Westwood’s own words: “My clothes always have a story. They always have an identity. They always have a character. That’s why they have become classics. They keep on telling that story.”
Pippa Smith